5/8 through 5/11

5/8 – First Full Ride Day Back (60 miles) – Natchez Trace – To Nashville, TN

I rode the Natchez Trace Parkway for 60 miles today. The ride was very nice and many said it was one of the best of the trip, if not the best. It was gorgeous. We even stopped at a waterfall, which was very impressive, the best I have ever seen. I had ridden the Natchez Trace before, several months ago in Mississippi on my EM externship. The 450 mile rode connects Tupelo, MS with Nashville, TN.The weather was perfect, high 60's, chilly only on downhills after stopping.

After the trace, the route was still nice. We passed by a bunch of gorgeous big old plantation homes. Then we found ourselves accidently riding backwards in the Franklin Rodeo Parade. We finished the ride and I thought I did well for my first full day back.

Nashville was a ton of fun at night. I danced and all that stuff, dancing with a bride-to-be at her batchelorette night out. Nashville has a nice little downtown party district, with a couple nice blocks of stuff to do. 2nd ave is the place to be, but much of it was quiet secondary to the recent flood (waters have receded). Many places were open for the first time this night. I'm sure there are other fun districts in town. I think Beale street in Memphis still takes the cake, with closed off streets for pedestrians (similar to Bourbon street in New Orleans). The music here in Nashville was way better though. The band was a huge motivation for me to get loose and dance. They did motivate me, draw out my passion. The band before them was also really good (some female country/rock singer and her group).

5/9 – Nashville Day Off

I awoke a with a little headache and dizziness having not slept enough after the night out. Bryce informed us that we had brunch coming from a Mormon contact of his. OK, so I will have the brunch, it's free. So I hung out and did pretty much nothing, just feeling crummy, just wanting a shower and food and a dark place to crawl in and sleep. So I hung out. I went into the public bathroom where an old black guy was rapping on and on about this and that. Yeah he was telling me about the flood and the aftermath and the people whose homes where hit. He was sponge-bathing in the sink. He tipped me off that the bus was free today (the city cutting people a break after the floods). I showered and the brunch arrived.

It was a big muffin and a chobani yogurt minus the sweet fruit bottom. I really wasn't in a big talky mood and I kinda just kept quiet around the group as they recounted last night's events. Uggh, hung over. So I ate and then krept back up the stairs to my sleeping bag, sleepy time. I stayed in for much of the rest of the day, getting a little sleep and a lot of chill time.

When I finally got up, it was to go to dinner with Brian, Sarah, and Adam. We were a good four person group even though deciding on dinner was tough. We found a good spot and everyone enjoyed their meal (Steak and Spaghetti House in downtown Nashville). I had a great steak with chicken pasta. The bread was also great. All were pleased.

I had a little ice cream and we went back to the rec center, which was part of the baptist church located so conveniently in downtown. I slept on a foam mattress and it was very comfy.

5/10 – 81 miles into Kentucky – Getting My Legs Back – Solo Riding

I felt way stronger today on the bike than I did for the 60 miler a couple days ago. My shoulder felt way better too. It was like I just woke on the right side of the bed today and just felt positive, even though alone.

I rode off with the group, ready to complete a scheduled century. It was chilly and gray and there was talk of rain. Many seemed to be in poor spirits or maybe just expecting the worst. Again, I felt good.

I started with the group but stopped for Jody, whose brake was rubbing in the back. We rode together the whole day, which was only 60 miles secondary to a group decision to rack and drive to the Mammoth Cave. This really upset me.

Feeling as great as I did, riding really strong, having a good day, I was very annoyed by the group decision to rack. I was alone in wanting to ride. Tim was barking at me and pissed because I even wanted to ride. He was somewhat insulting, though I don't think that was his intention. I had no phone, no maps, and nobody to ride with. Thus frustrated, I decided I had no choice, and I took off my front wheel. Just then, as I had accepted this frustration, Ampersand started to explain things to me, started to jump in with the reason. I felt like he was trying to take away my right to frustration, and I just snapped, cursing him out. A group saw the scene, which was basically a few loud F bombs directed at Andy and then walking away. In the end, things worked out in a sense.

Racked and still very frustrated, annoyed at all the followers and the leaders, I rode in the van, upset. I really wanted to ride in Kentucky, because I want to get all 50 states and this was going to blow it. A decision to see some caves I didn’t care about was going to blow my shot at Kentucky miles (the next day was support and then a flight out for graduation, this was my only chance). When we got to the caves, I just couldn't bear to go in. I just couldn't, like I just could not do it. Something from inside was saying "NO."

While everyone went inside and checked out the caves, I unracked and rode an extra 21 miles. It was one of my favorite little portions of riding, perhaps on the whole trip, mainly because I vented a lot of frustrations.

I got back on time and racked my bike with a still-injured shoulder, like a champ. I climbed the rear wheel and one-handed my bike up to the rack. I got it done, then the wheel. And my timing was perfect. The group went to an event at a pizza hut with a Lion's Club. We met a couple cyclists going from NY to San Fran (with paniers), raising money for autism. They came home with us.

The night was spent in a barn with tons of character, and too much dirt for Voss (slept in the van). I had a couple beers, ate a bunch of carbs (cookies, powerbars, goldfish, etc) and prepared for a support day.

5/11 – Support Day to Louisville, KY – Flight home for Graduation

I had a great support day with Jody. We get along well on support and have a similar mindframe when it comes to responsibilities and relaxing. She keeps losing her phone and rummaging through the van throwing stuff everywhere and it is funny. We supported the riders well at the first water stop and the lunch stop on what was a very neat route through Kentucky.

The roads were hilly and curvy and fun to even drive, let alone bike. We played lots of music for people and did our two second parties when passing by. We had some trouble catching the lead group who were hauling ass down hills, but we finally caught up at mile 50, just in time to get ahead for a lunch stop.

Our stopping point was a cool gas station and we played lots of music. I had a pork loin sandwich from this local gas joint.

After lunch we went to Chris' friend's place, our place for the night in New Albany, IN, a suburb of Louisville, KY. I soon had to leave for my plane ride. It was a little melancholy saying goodbye to a few people, those I will miss. I gave Pete an Extenze bottle; I figure it is the least I could do for him.

Off to the airport, I was with Josh, the portion rider EM resident at UMass. He and I chilled in the airport and then the airplane (both connecting to Chicago). I immediately missed people and became tired in the airport, more tired than I had been for the whole ride, for weeks. It was odd to be back in the real world, free really, as if suddenly able to move in extra dimensions. It was like there was a purpose to thinking again, like it might help something. My thoughts might actually make a difference, guide my behaviors, and cause something to happen (on the ride, I just keep my mouth shut and go with the flow.)

At mom's place that night, I had a routine meal that was extremely spectacular to me. It was one of the better meals of my life. My sleep that night was also quite amazing, for 11 or so hours.

5/6 and 5/7

5/6 – To tiny little Milan, TN

I did support with Team Tango today out of Memphis. I did a good morning workout which was basically some stationary bike and then a lot of shoulder rehab. It was very encouraging to lift 10lb weights with the injured shoulder.

Pete and I left out and immediately went to the Commissary, another of so many great BBQ places in the Memphis. I had a great pulled pork sandwich that would have been perfect save for the sauce being poorly distributed (only on half the sandwich). The pork was awesome. The place had many impressive celebrity-signed pictures. Brett Favre, Randy Johnson, Phil Mickelson and others. Tebo was there just the day before us.

I drove off with Pete and we did sweep duties. It was fine chilling with Pete, who is sort of an interesting guy. I liken him to Dr. Stanley in both looks and personality. I rode the second half of the day with Jen, who is super cool.

In the little town of Milan, we had a night at a Baptist church's rec center. I played some really fun card game with Roshan and Jen. It was called "Bullshit." A guy representing the church came by with his wife. They brought us Domino's pizza, enough for each of us to have three slices. It was pretty good. I think I actually had a dream about it a night or two later.

A lot of my dreams have been extremely matter of fact and super easy to interpret. There is no mistaking them. I will dream of waking up and going to the bathroom or see someone eating cereal, just random stuff from the ride.

A little dog became our team’s mascot for the night. He was little scruffy street dog, one of many loose dogs in this part of Tennessee. He hung around our church door for much of the night and befriended many of us who were glad to have a pet for the first time in weeks. He got a lot of attention (and followed us on our bikes for a while the next day).

5/7 – Back on Bike (31 miles) – Strawberry Festival – To Hohenwald, TN

I rode out 10 miles to the Strawberry Festival. We decorated our bikes and the van in preparation for the parade we were to be a part of. As we were preparing, these little bees were all around us and one stung me; little buggers.

The parade was neat with all sorts of odd vehicles and a bunch of beauty queens. They were Miss some high school or Miss some county. We rode through and Roshan totally stole the show with dance moves. He had the king's cape on alongside Maggie. He danced and used the bike as a prop, winning over the crowd several times, bringing laughter and cheers.

I had a huge corndog (1/4lb) after the parade and then rode off on an unsupported ride with Hepker, the new guy Josh, and Heidi. I couldn't keep up after mile 10 or so and they dropped me. Hepker was pissed that I came out on this unsupported ride and Heidi brought up my lack of a phone. It got me in a bad mood for several hours and really motivated me to get back on the bike. I hope to get back in the same kind of shape I was before I crashed.

The night in Hohenwald was good for a few reasons. There was an awesome internet cafe with great food and prices. I had a bangin' smoothy (mango) and some other stuff (a fruit bar). R4 cooked a great dinner, maybe the best of the ride (chicken, noodles, southwest salad - all tasty). I finished my paper, which my school requires to give me credit for this elective (yay, I can graduate!).

5-3 through 5-5

5/3 – Back on the Bike for a short ride – into Marvell, AR

Today I rode my bike for the first time since April 21, about 12 days. I did 30 miles in AR and I can check another state off of my list of those ridden in. Roshan was kind enough to help me with my bike prep (two flats repaired) and ride with me. The day was nice, with riding over a very gorgeous bridge and river trail riding (all in the first 8 miles). It was Roshan and I to the first water stop, at mile 30, where I decided it was best to stop. All in all, considering my concerns and anxieties about riding, it went tremendously well.

Katie swept me at lunch and I spent the rest of the day in the van. I had no desire for food, no hunger at breakfast or even after the 30 mile ride, but I ate at the lunch stop, then it lead to more eating.

We came to First Baptist Church of Marvell in the evening and were fed very well (delicious chicken, baked potato, jello with fruit).

Tomorrow is my support day and we reach Tennessee, Memphis actually.

5/4 – To Memphis, A Memphis Night Out

Support day was murder, but all in all we got our job done, no big problems.

We arrived in Memphis to the Germantown United Methodist Center in the afternoon. The place is awesome and we have hook ups that are taking us out to dinner and showing us around town.

Rendezvous in downtown Memphis was a fun experience. I rate the dining experience an 8 out of 10. The brisket was really good when hot (8/10). After it got cold, it kind tasted too fatty, but I had no problems happily eating it all. The famous ribs were served dry, I guess for connoisseurs to better taste the quality flavor. For me, I would prefer more moisture, but the flavor was good. The cold slaw was very unique (yellow) and good. I think it has actually changed my opinion of cold slaw from unfavorable overall to favorable. The apps of sausage and cheese were some of my favorite apps ever (sausage was good and ample).

After dinner we went to Beale Street, which is an outdoor party district in Memphis. It was awesome because you can have an open container outside and carry it into many places. The memories of note were (1) dancing with Jody outdoors - we broke it down and had a lot of people watching and laughing, (2) Karaoke with the guys to some cheesy Bruce Springsteen Song. It was so nice to be able to get huge cheap drinks and enjoy them outside in a very nice outdoor strip area (on a Tuesday night for crying out loud!) - what a place Memphis is.

5/5 – Memphis Day Off

We woke as late as we could (9am) and left for a day in Memphis at 10:30am.

We had an event at UT-Memphis Med School at noon. It was fine and we were gone at 1pm, with a few hours to chill.

We went to SUN records where Elvis and Johnny Cash recorded (and others). I bought a bag there. It was a cool place with a nice old 50’s T-Bird convertible outside.

Next was the National Civil Rights Museum and the site of Martin Luther King Jr's assassination. I really wasn't thrilled about going to a museum, but this was incredible. A video almost brought me to tears (and did others). The museum itself was built into the preserved Lorraine Motel where MLK was shot. The outside of the hotel was very (I can't think of a word). There were even old vintage 60's cars parked out front, just as they were when he was shot. We toured the inside too.

Brian and I high-tailed it to the Kooky Canuck restaurant so they could cook our big 12lb burger (it took an hour to prepare). It is a burger challenge featured on the Travel Channel’s Man Vs Food. We did a damn good job, consuming probably 12,000 of the 18,000 calories, but we couldn't complete the challenge. The bread was just impossible to finish although I was proud to get my full 3lb of beef down (and the fixings, cheese, etc). I also had a 32oz margarita (for $3 on 5-May!)

The group all met for a Memphis Red Birds AAA game. It was a really nice venue and just so nice to look at the field, the ball game, the buildings around, the sky. It was that nice time of day when things are nice (say 7pm after a hot day). We left and came home and got enough sleep.

5/2

5/2 – Day off in Little Rock

Today Ride For World Health awoke bright and early as always. The Knights of Columbus began preparations for breakfast at about 6:30am, long before our weary eyes wanted to open. You see, last night we had a little fun in Little Rock, stayed out late. Oh well.

We ate bacon, eggs, biscuits with gravy, and more in St. Theresa’s Catholic Church of Little Rock, and then made plans for a rare day off. The van departed for Little Rock’s downtown area and we arrived before 10am. Free. Free at last, with nothing to do, no place to be, no talks to give, no vans to unload. No bags to pack, no routes to mark, no food to cook. Just free!

Some of us (including myself) enjoyed a tour of the USS Razorback submarine. It sank several Japanese ships in WWII before being sold Turkey. Now it sits in the Arkansas river in Little Rock. The tour was simply awesome in my opinion. There were about 6-8 rooms, all of which were extremely tiny and cramped. One little room was just full of missiles and little beds, all just jammed together. All of the rooms shared the distinction of being great feats of engineering, loaded with gauges and knobs, gadgets and gizmos that seemed almost too many to be real. Apparently the men set off on three month tours. The temperature in the sub was about 90 degrees Fahrenheit and men often had to sleep two to a bed. They showered every two weeks. How about that! It sure makes complaining difficult.

Other people went to Heifer's headquarters, an organization that seeks to end hunger and poverty worldwide. They offer a service where you can buy a cow or sheep or chickens for an impoverished family in third world countries. I heard a cow is $150 and a chicken is $20.

The rest of the day was spent in and out of local restaurants and drinking holes. I really enjoyed the Flying Burrito Cantina, which featured huge $1.80 tacos. We left in the late afternoon, back to the church.

All in all, it was a successful day off. Little Rock isn’t a very big town and really doesn’t offer a great variety of dining options. However, the little strip of bars and restaurants is nicely situated along the Arkansas River. Thoroughly rested and returned to church, the group cooked dinner (chicken salad) and settled down for the night.

PS: Arkansas has been a very nice surprise to many of the riders. It has been very pretty, with tree-lined back country roads and some nice hills. We have encountered our first rains of the trip, but we have managed to dodge terrible storms, which have wreaked havoc nearby. Indeed, there have been several deadly tornados in the state, all of which we have thankfully missed. Maybe staying in all of these Churches – paying homage to the Methodists, Baptists, Jews, and now the Catholics – maybe it’s paying off.

5/1

5/1 – Into Little Rock, night on the town

I rode with Libby and we helped with like 5 flat tires. Tim had to rack due to a tire issue after about 10 miles. At the lunch stop, there was a pond with frogs, crawfish, and spiders.

We arrived at the St. Theresa Catholic Church's basketball gym outside of Little Rock in the afternoon. It was our place for the next two nights (since the next day was an off day). The gym was a little dusty and kind of old, not much going on there except one wall of wooden seats (which weren't comfortable). The lighting was kind of poor it seemed.

With nothing to do I settled into a thinly carpeted room and took a pretty durn good nap for two hours. Then we went out to Little Rock's downtown, where we got free admission to the Crawfish festival. We had free drinks, good corn on the cob and a burger w/ potatoes. I’m allergic to shell-fish, but many among us enjoyed free crawfish. There was a band.

We left from there and started going to bars. The Flying Saucer offered a wide selection of domestic and international beers. There were some neat piano bars too.

It was a really fun night. People let off a bunch of steam and practiced their pickup lines, their moves. All of us had a chance to talk to some people outside of the ride and just get away, forget for a few hours.

4/28 through 4/30 (Into Arkansas)

Images:

(1, 2) Hanging out by a river en route to Magnolia, AR

3: me en route to Little Rock, AR

4: Riders reaching a water stop, labeled "H2O" as we always do

4/28 – To Magnolia, AR with Jody – Empty-House Lecture – Presbyterian Dinner

Today I rode out late with Jody on support. We got into this hillarious half-real argument about trust and mistrust related to our secret Santa thing. It was really funny how she would get worked up, "riled up" as she put it, over my concern that she would spill the beans. I was playing the fool, a super fool, who misunderstood everything.

We gave a lecture to a couple people at the Senior Citizen Center in Texarkana. It was a mess standing up talking to absolutely nobody, three old ladies entranced in a game of cards paying us no attention. I pretended it was a full house. Jody cracked up at me and then I lost it in deep laughter, nearly falling onto a table just as our only two audience members trickled in. We then lectured to these two heros for fifteen minutes before getting out of dodge. We did it. We lectured.

We came to Magnolia and met up with the group at our home for the night, a Presbyterian church. They fed us very well, pork chops, gravy, mushrooms, rice, and abundant deserts. Afterwards, I went out for my first long walk since injuring my shoulder (it has hurt too much until now).

4/29 – to Arkadelphia, AR – Spud-Nuts – A River

Post-Breakfast from Magnolia Arkansas, in a Presbyterian Church:

I feel a little sicky with a sensation in my head of fogginess, like there is too much fluid in there. My head feels a little heavy. Yeah, my right shoulder is a mess, but it is getting better. My belly feels bloggy, boggy maybe, full or emptying of three great donuts and a bowl of cheerios. The donuts were the best I have ever had, spud-nuts made of potato flour. Word is there are only three spud-nut shops left in the country, said the minister. He said there is one here, one some place, and one in Washington state, to which Tim replied, "yeah, there is one in Richland, WA... opens every day at 5am."

I love food. I have figured this out if nothing else on this trip. If there is something homemade or some local restaurant offering local fare, I'm a sucker hungry or not. Just charge it to my card. I had chicken-fried steak w/ texas toast the other day. Spud-nuts today, pounds of brisket a week ago before my bike wreck. Funny thing is, I like not eating too. I like being hungry, skipping big meals, going days in caloric deficit.

My head is still boggy. My pillow last night wasn't high enough, but I guess that happens sometimes when your pillow is three stacked sweatshirts. Today I'm on support with Tango, riding out with Hepker. I 'spose I hope this day is slow and grindy, gritty, a bit uncozy, hazy, memorable. I hope that in a week or ten days or twenty, I look back and remember the feeling of this day, one I might not even appreciate now.

Day mostly done

My day has ocurred and now it is nearly 8pm, with a little bit of day left. Stuff happened. For one, I sat by a river for nearly an hour soaking up sun rays, my feet chili in the water's edge. For two, I ate a plate of eggs with cheese inside an Arkansas convenient store that served meals. Other things went down and somewhere in there it all went sour, southward. I got grumpy and barked out frustrations I'm thankful others didn't hear. We had our R4WH olympics and my hurt arm didn't cooperate and my team lost. Afterwards my spirits lifted when dinner delivered big, bunless burgers w/ cheese, antipasta, veggies.

At one point, I stepped downward and landed a foot lower than I had hoped, my left foot missing the sidewalk and landing on the road below. A jolt of pain shot through my injured shoulder, but ever since that, I have been doing better. I have better ROM and less pain, I guess because it is all swollen tight.

4/30 – To Hot Springs, AR – Rain Country – Bath House – Great Dinner

My rear end smells of a gas that comes out every couple minutes. My hair is sticky like it likes to get after I shower, just sticky. I have these painful lymph nodes in my right inguinal region, draining faithfully the upper thigh edema that persists now 9 days after wrecking my bike, wrecking my shoulder. The shoulder moves more and twice in these past two days it has awoken me abruptly like a newborn infant screaming its head off, bitterly pissed and raging, pouting. Whatever, let it hurt, let it wine. This is life and it is has to get tougher, stronger for us.

Today I rode sweep van with Sarah, my friend. We made it to Hot Springs Arkansas, boyhood home of Bill Clinton. The whole group bathed in one of the various bath houses that line a main drag through town, forming jointly the Hot Springs National Park.

I had a couple beers today, new ones to me - Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout from England. I would rate it a 8.5 and it would have been a 9 if this day was a little better. But you know what, I can already sense this day is one that I will appreciated in a week or two. This is one I will look back at missing the bitter, a bitter that is only here in this life. I might miss my lonely jaunt back to the van or my moments alone on the bench. Maybe it was the water or the lush backdrop of high rising trees sitting on a big hill.

The riders rode in rain today for the first time. It was 35 miles from Texarkana to Hot Springs. Tonight we had the best free meal of the trip, a BBQ catered dinner rich in brisket and rotisserie chicken. The chicken particularly had a great flavor deep to the bone, but the brisket dominates my full belly. I didn't forget the sweet tea.

Now I'm just keeping up with my life, maybe update some blog stuff, maybe read a little bit of my book "The Shack." It was very nice this evening to ride the stationary bike for about 45 minutes. I hope I can do it in the morning as well. I need it.

I went to Cracker barrel for the first time today, in the am with Sarah. I wasn't hungry, but she nudged me because it was my first time, so I had a two egg sandwich on her suggestion. It was super solid good.

4/26 through 4/27 (Last bit of Texas)

4/26 – To Paris, TX – Super Burger

Today I rode support with Libby and we sang some songs. She sings really well and at one point I think it was helping me fall asleep. I awoke sort of grumpy just as we arrived at the Eiffel Tower of Paris, TX, decked out as it is with a red cowboy hat on top. Soon a news van came to film us for local 99 here in Paris, TX.

So we left there and arrived at First United Methodist Church (FUMC). Again, the methodists hooked us up with dinner and lodging. This building is a basketball gym but there are lots of sofas and I am on one tonight.

After dinner I walked to Jaxx in downtown (a quaint little town). Chris and Sarah came and played on the internet, while I downed the biggest burger of my life (4 patties). I have eaten really well. I recall a 3 pattie monster with 20oz beer a couple days ago with Pete. Maybe I will tackle a food challenge with Brian soon.

For all the rest of it, my shoulder is doing ok. It is better than the first time, I'll say that.

One thing worth mentioning are recurring themes on this ride. For one, we are constantly in basketball gyms. At high schools, churches, synagoges, and community centers, we find ourselves sleeping on hardwood basketball courts. Light floors, dark ones, dirty ones, shiny ones. Some of high schools have banners all over, proclaiming their dominance over the rest.

Another theme is religion. It is hard to avoid because we constantly get free dinners from Methodists, Baptists, Jews. We bow our heads and most of us say Amen, as they bless our free meals. Occasionally there is a night service and some of us go, if for no other reason than to be hospitable. I have been to more services on this trip than I had in the last several years combined. My favorite part is the singing.

4/27 – To Texarkana, TX with Tim

Images all from 4/27 - 1: "Cafe," 2: tombstones out front of "Cafe," 3: "Cafe" owner, 4: one of several fields beautified by yellow weeds

It was a good day riding in the sweep van, resting my shoulder. Tim and I hit up a McDonald’s on our way out of Paris, TX, taking advantage of their free internet. We then drove off and landed at a gas station where we gambled away $6 in quarters.

It was a machine that contained a bunch of quarters behind a glass wall. When a quarter was entered, a sliding scraper would sweep forward raising your hopes that several quarts would fall off of the ledge. The quarters in the front were glued down and we left disappointed.

Our next stop was at a place labeled “Café” in a town of maybe 800 people. We met a guy that I hope never reads this, because he is crazy and I don’t want to hurt is feelings by calling him crazy. He had a bunch of coffins in his café and a bunch of tombstones out front. He was translating a Spanish text into English, some book he was amazed by. He also told us about a giant hole he found on his property, then showed us. He had stuck a bunch of ladders down in it. Apparently he had driven right by it for seven years but just found it today. He was a very fascinating guy, but we decided we might grab some food elsewhere.

We met up with Ampersand (Andy), who signs emails with a “&” and had lunch. It was at the Red Rooster café which featured delectable authentic food of the deep south. I had chicken fried steak and a lot of sweet tea. I was tempted to try a deep fried oreo, but we had to get going.

On down the road, still smooth sailing for the riders and little work for us to do, we found an icee shop. There were like 40 flavors to choose from and bottom line is, the lady was so kind to give us our stuff for free (after hearing about our mission). After that we killed a little time in a library before going on into Texarkana, TX at 4pm.

The place we stayed in was one of the nicest of the trip. Again it was a basketball gym, but it also had nice wireless internet and several tables and chairs, and even televisions. Here we had a journal club on PEPFAR’s effectiveness in fighting HIV/AIDS in Africa.

It was a good day. Having not ridden in six days, my body has really settled into a comfy place. I’m stuffing my face with food and deserts, but still not gaining much weight. My shoulder still needs a week or two, but I’m feeling good.